What it doesn’t show is what a luxurious pleasure this dish is: diaphanous clouds of tofu slip down the throat on a warm, red tide, the crunchy soybeans adding a reversal of texture, the cabbage’s pungent punch and the onion’s grassy bite adding another. Illustrator Qin Ma also designed the menu with an eye to its clarity for non-Chinese speakers its hand-drawn and -labeled cartoon diagrams of eight iconic “Chengdu Famous Plates” will let you know that, e.g., the soft spicy bean curd is topped with minced green onion, pickled cabbage, and soybeans as well as house-made chile oil. Opening last August to daunting lines, the tiny space is smartly appointed with painted wooden boards on the walls announcing the dishes in Chinese. You’ll be working at it, and the booze helps you enjoy it more.Ī Place by Damao is the creation of 24-year-old Aishan “Damao” Zhong and partner Mori Guo, who are emblematic of a new Chinatown that’s bleeding into Bridgeport and becoming ever more interesting with the arrivals of young fresh blood. I drank cheap Riesling one night and three different kinds of mezcal on another. A Place by Damao doesn’t have a liquor license, so if you imbibe, you want to be sure you come prepared with your favorite poison, because this is ideal drinking food. These various bites are served cold, as you’d find them on the street in Chengdu, China.
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The prominent flat-screen television throws a glow on hotel pans full of chewy chicken gizzards, snappy pork ears, and wiry chicken feet. Same thing applies to the duck wings, duck feet, duck tongues, and duck heads you’ll find under a glass display case by the register at the rear of this tiny strip-mall storefront. You’ll miss some of fun, though-like licking the thick Sichuan peppercorn rub from your fingertips. If you happen to have a higher opinion of your manners, you can slip on a pair of the thin, clear plastic gloves you’ll be offered. Well, maybe you’d approach a human neck differently, but at Bridgeport’s A Place by Damao, you just pick up the bird’s nape from each end and get in there, nicking precious scraps of spice- and soy-braised flesh out of the curves and angles of the tiny vertebrae like a merciless, red-fanged predator.
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I’ve recently learned there’s no more appropriate viewing when gnawing on a cold duck neck than the Syfy vampire gorefest Van Helsing, which can be a colorful primer on how to eat your way around cervical vertebrae.
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Now Playing: Chicago’s history in movie ads.If you handle the cake too much or if it gets to be room temperature after a while, it will collapse.
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